Annapurna Base Camp Day 1

Now that I got introduced to the region on my Kathmandu Day Tour, it was time to do what I came for. Namely, go all the way to the Base Camp of Annapurna, one of the highest mountains in the world.

A long time coming and not a long time planning, I was trying to find a shorter tour of one of the highest peaks in the world. The trail to Everest base camp (EBC) was much longer, normally 14 days. I had a week at best before going back to my university teaching duties, so I took Annapurna base camp (ABC) as my best option. The Outfitter Himalaya tour guide offered a comfortable 5-day track which we set on, although it seems that many people opt in for even longer options. I was joined by Parlad Dharel, an experienced local base camp guide.

Check out other hikes from this trip:

• Kathmandu Day Tour
• Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Day 1 (you're here)
• Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Day 2
• Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Day 3
• Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Day 4
• Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Day 5
• Pokhara World Peace Stupa 71

The trip to Annapurna Base Camp starts off in Samrung, a small village deep in the mountains, yet still accessible by a jeep. People that want to approach Annapurna from the north begin the ascent at the Birethanti village instead, although this route doesn't go to the base camp, instead wrapping around the mountain.

From Samrung, I took the 280-meter suspension bridge that the government built 5 years ago to allow locals to cross the Kyumrung Khola river easier.

Mules/donkeys take supplies all the way to Sinuwa village (2340 m) and the old path across the river created a lot of traffic jams and danger, so the government wanted to help out the locals. Parlad told me that in more touristy seasons you typically wait for an hour to cross the bridge because of the high volume of hikers and mules.

In June, however, it was mostly empty. We crossed the bridge easily, with my guide saying that some tourists get scared of heights and can't cross the bridge without help.

We then walked up to Jhinu Danda, a small village made exclusively of hotels and restaurants serving local food. It has to be said, though, that the food in the region is quite scarce due to transportation complexity, so you typically get some dry food with spicy sauce and pickled vegetables.

Because of the hikers, they also offer western food from time to time, like toast, pancakes or pizza.

The local toilets are also simplistic and don't have toilet paper (it's a resource that runs out quickly, plus locals prefer only washing themselves), so if you're in the region, make sure to take some with you.

After having lunch in the village, we walked to Taulung and made a short break there. The weather was really unforgiving, with 30 degree heat, no clouds and no wind. You need to bring a lot of water and purification tablets, otherwise you're pretty screwed.

In June the monsoons cover most of the region. In the morning, the sky gets completely clear with views far into the distance, but around 16:00 the humidity accumulates and the downpour starts, lasting until late evening. Thanks to the rains, the local nature is thriving. Lush forests, waterfalls, moss and ferns, bushes of all kinds with birds hiding among them. It reminded me of my trip to Madeira, especially the Caldeirão Verde hike.

The whole route so far is just stone steps, with the locals repairing small cracked sections of them from time to time. Around Taulung we also saw a big group of mules carrying propane tanks and trash down to Samrung, taking the load off the shoulders of the local sherpas. As I was told, the mules live in Chhomrong and don't go past Sinuwa, so the rest of the way to Annapurna Base Camp the supplies need to be carried on foot.

The rest of the way was quite smooth, as it was easier to walk with clouds covering the sun. We walked to the entrance of Chhomrong, last the local stupa shrine, went a bit down to the valley and reached the tea house we were spending the night at.

This is the last location where one can reasonably drink alcohol, so I tried some local ARNA strong Nepali lager. I'm not a connoisseur of beer, so I can't tell you about the subtle notes of Buddhist culture in the drink, but it tasted good to me.

This marks the end of the easy section of the hike, named by a passer-by Australian hiker as the warm-up. From the next day onwards, the hikes get longer and tougher.