Revenge Against Risserkogel

The original plan when I hiked to Setzberg (1706 m) was to attempt Risserkogel (1826 m). Back then, when I got to the emergency shelter on the saddle, the route forward seemed too risky. Knowing myself and my inability to turn back and give up, I chose the easier option of going towards Wallberg (1722 m). This time, I'm back for revenge!

The morning bus was more crowded than usual, with many hikers enjoying the mountains for the first time since last year. All of them, however, left at the Wallberg (1722 m) cable car station, so my route up was lonely and tranquil.

As I approached Setzbergeck (1179 m), I was blocked off by a Wildschongebiet sign both on the way up and down towards the summit. I had to make a detour onto the hiking trail, but it turned out great, with shade from the forest and greenery below.

It was already warm on the hillside, but the usual stuffiness of summer air wasn't there yet. The dust from the ground and the evaporating juices of the grass make up quite a challenge on the hottest days, but for now I was able to enjoy the route without facing it.

I saw quite a few mountain bikers on the tiny trail I stepped on. Most riding downhill, but some even riding up there. Last time I saw a mountain biker was on Simetsberg (1840 m) near Walchensee. Back then, when I saw the trembling arms and the veiny legs, I knew that it would take me years to do anything comparably difficult.

The next stop on my way was Daffenstein (1546 m). It's a bare rock in the middle of a steep slope, not secured with any via ferrata cables except for two ropes leading up to the start of the climbing route.

I took one of the ropes and climbed as high as I could without equipment (within reason), took some photos, and climbed back down. I really wanted to see the cross they allegedly had at the top, so I hiked around the rock and found the cross on the other side, accessible without equipment but with some climbing to do.

I left my belongings and climbed there, taking some photos and quickly climbing back down again before the adrenaline wears off. It was time to continue towards the saddle, and the map was telling me to go all the way down the steep slope towards the popular trail. I decided against it and kept pushing upward.

The trails around the rock were very faint, with goat droppings, so probably not man-made. At that point, I didn't care. I just wanted to get back to the normal hiking route.

Going up and leaning towards the main trail, I passed the places I dug through with knee-deep snow on my way to Setzberg (1706 m). It was surreal to see them without the pile of snow and the cold embrace of winter, but I didn't want to reminisce for too long, since I haven't done even half of the planned hike.

When I arrived at the saddle, two local hikers resting there told me that the route towards Risserkogel (1826 m) is still quite dangerous, and the route towards Spitzingsee from the peak is even worse. I wanted to see it for myself. Usually, I take risks like that for the sake of a more interesting adventure, but after all my injuries, I try to stay on the safer side.

While I was talking to them, a much bigger and less prepared group came by and said that the route is completely fine if you have hiking sticks. With the newfound motivation, I set off to the peak of Grubereck (1664 m), which was on the way to my goal.

In the meantime, all the paragliders around Wallberg (1722 m) have also set off on their journeys, filling the sky with colorful parachutes. It was a great sight to behold, and a nice view with Tegernsee in the background to send to my parents.

The road quite quickly got covered in snow that hasn't melted since winter. It wasn't anything dangerous though, with tons of people passing me on their way down. The summit of Grubereck (1664 m) only had a plaque describing the mountain and the area, so I didn't wait for too long and continued my hike.

After that, the 30 minutes to the summit of Risserkogel (1826 m) were uneventful. The trail is a bit steeper there, but nothing a moderately fit person can't manage.

The greatest benefit of this route is the scenery you have around. Towards north, you have Blankenstein (1768 m), Setzberg (1706 m) and Wallberg (1722 m). All frequently visited by groups of hikers. In the distance, closer to Tegernsee, you have the paragliders and the glider planes flying around. Towards east, you're greeted by Roßkopf (1579 m) and Stümpfling (1506 m), and the saddle in-between leading to Spitzingsee. To the south, check out the Blauberge ridge, including Halserspitz (1862 m). And right behind them, already in Austria, you can spot Guffertspitze (2194 m). Towards west, Buchstein (1701 m), Roßstein (1698 m), and Leonhardstein (1452 m) stand out among others with their sharp peaks and steep inclines.

If you're lucky, on the road towards Risserkogel (1826 m) you can spot wild chamois, mountain eagles, alpine choughs and other animals. The only downside are the ant hills. If you stop in the wrong place for even a moment, you'll be bitten for sure! At least I was...

When I reached the summit of Risserkogel (1826 m), the only people there were a pair of foreign hikers with a Labrador. They really wanted to go down to Wildbad Kreuth, but had no idea which route to take. I gave them some basic directions and offered to descend together, since going alone started getting a bit boring. They wanted to stay at the summit a bit longer, and I had a bus to catch, so we parted ways.

My initial idea was to go north-east towards Spitzingsee. Peaking over the slope on the summit, I saw the steep trail and the overabundance of snow on the route ahead, so I switched my plan to also go to Wildbad Kreuth instead.

The trail was quite steep at first, but soon after it got better and the bushes opened up to reveal the panorama of the Austrian Alps just across the German border. I distinctly remember my fascination with that view from my hike to Blauberge, when all the mountains were covered in dried-up grass and ferns. This time, the Alps were still covered in snow, offering a new unique perspective I haven't seen before. At this point, I can be certain the view there is great in any season, as long as it's not fully covered in clouds.

From this point onwards, I followed the trail down to the crossroads leading up to Grubereck (1664 m). There were some nice streams and tiny waterfalls around, but the main attractions were still the views towards Austria.

At the crossroads I met a hiker I've come across on my way to Risserkogel (1826 m). As he greeted me, his foot slipped off a loose rock, and he tumbled to the side. After checking up on him, we started going down together, but he quickly stopped and I continued on my own.

While the panorama in the distance didn't change much as I was going down, the surrounding scenery did. The higher sections had bushes and dry grass from last year, and I slipped a few times on the dry dusty gravel trail leading me down.

As I got lower, the spruce trees got higher and mostly replaced the bushes. The trail was covered in shade and there was a pleasant breeze helping me stay fresh. Soon after, I started seeing trees with leaves, and the gravel trail got replaced by a proper wider dirt road. 20 or so minutes later, I came down to a big dirt road coming from deep in the mountains towards the asphalt road. Instead of walking on it, I stayed on a smaller trail going parallel to it, having flowers, greenery, and shade unlike the bigger road.

Near the bus stop, I discovered I had to wait for an hour and decided to visit the local Schwaiger Alm. I got 0.3l of Almdudler for 4.50€ and a decent piece of Apfelstrudel for 7€. Make of the prices what you will, but the food was quite ok.

After my dinner break, I headed towards the bus stop parking lot across the smaller trail going near a waterfall and a small swimming area underneath it. It seems very tempting to visit it in summer, but the mountain stream water will probably not be that much warmer compared to now.

The bus stop itself was also surprisingly nice, with a small picnic area right next to it, and an asphalt parking spot for drivers too afraid to drive onto the gravel. There was a random sports car parked there, so the reasoning checked out.

All in all, I highly recommend this route. Despite what some others say, the trail from Kreuth to Risserkogel (1826 m) is very approachable in the warm seasons. The views it offers and the experience you get are irreplaceable, so put it on your to-do list! As long as you're moderately fit and have decent hiking shoes, this route is for you. The route doesn't require any other equipment, although hiking poles are a plus.

From the top, you have plenty of options for the descent. You can either go to Kreuth Wildbad, back to Kreuth Rathaus from where the route starts, to Spitzingsee over Roßkopf (1579 m) or to Rottach-Egern over Setzberg (1706 m) and Wallberg (1722 m). I highly recommend the last option, as it offers the best views and some interesting educational plaques along the way. It takes around an hour to hike between Grubereck (1664 m) and Wallberghaus (which closes at 17:00). From there you have plenty of options, including buggies, a cable car, paragliding, or just going down to the Wallberbahn bus stop.