Slipping Down Soiernspitze

After my November hike to Hirschberg (1668 m), I was looking for adventures. Mikuláš and I were eyeing Signalkopf (1895 m) as a potential hike for a really long time. Given the season and the unknown snow conditions, we decided to take the highest peak first and see how it goes. The peak in question is the highest point of the ridge, Soiernspitze (2253 m).

I asked my flatmates if they wanted to join, and Felix was up for it. We took the train and the bus to the barracks near Mittenwald and started our hike. The first section led us through the forest on a well-marked dirt road. We were debating if we should take the southern trail across the river or the northern one up the slope. I double-checked the tags on openstreetmap.org and saw no bridge across the river, so to be safe, we took the northern trail.

As we got closer to Krinner-Kofler-Hütte (1407 m), we saw a big group of mountain goats grazing on the slope. They saw us from afar and started moving away, so we didn't get to snap any good photos.

Since the road to Vereiner Alm is located in a valley between two ridges, the whole area is usually covered in shade and fog. Luckily for us, the weather was clear that day, so the only thing we had to deal with was the snow that didn't melt in the dark shade of the mountains.

Soon enough, we walked past the crossing between our current trail and the southern trail we considered earlier. There were no signs of a bridge and the snow was untouched and waist-high, so we were glad we took the northern route.

We reached the start of the mountain slope leading to our destination and started our ascent. The snow was still quite deep, so Mikuláš took charge with his gaiters to break the trail. Felix and I followed closely behind, with Felix wearing his outdoor shoes not designed for deep snow. We made steady progress, taking breaks as needed to catch our breath and enjoy the surrounding views.

The sun came out as we ascended higher, illuminating the snow-covered landscape and creating a beautiful contrast against the blue sky. The snow was getting softer and shallower as we climbed, making it easier to walk without sinking too deep.

Eventually, we reached the Jöchel mountain pass (1787 m), where we took a longer break to refuel and prepare for the final climb to the top. Felix was feeling less confident about continuing, and I was starting to feel tired from the steep slope. Mikuláš encouraged us to pay attention to our feelings and body and make the best decision for ourselves.

We climbed a bit higher, but after some consideration, Felix decided to turn back and walk down to Vereiner Alm and travel back home. Mikuláš told me to keep going if I felt up to it, while he would bring Felix down safely first. I managed to slip and hurt my arm pretty badly on a rock, but I was determined to keep going.

The terrain from that point was more rocky than snowy, so I was able to continue with less trouble. But I started to worry about the descent, as it was going to be steep and slippery. I took my time, using my trekking poles for stability and carefully choosing my footing.

Somehow, Mikuláš managed to walk Felix down and catch up with me before the summit. We continued together, with Mikuláš leading the way and breaking the trail where needed. Finally, we reached the summit of Soiernspitze (2253 m), where we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The snow was much deeper at the top than I expected despite the wind and sun exposure. At that point I was so tired that I could barely stand, I'm not sure why the altitude affected me that much.

The iced-over snow on the entire ridge made it very risky to continue towards Signalkopf (1895 m), so we decided to call it a day and return in summer to complete the ridge hike. It was better than risking injury or death on the way.

We took our time to soak in the scenery and snap photos in every direction, and while doing so, we noticed a few other hikers walking in our direction from Feldernkopf (2071 m). I'm not sure if we had an inner need to wait for them or if we just wanted to enjoy the summit a bit longer, but we stayed put until they reached us. It was a couple from Munich who decided to hike the entire ridge like we initially planned.

The girl managed to fall on the rocks while going along the ridge, as steep terrain made it very hard to keep balance, and there were no safety ropes or rocks to hold onto. They were asking for painkillers, since they didn't have DAV insurance to call for rescue. Unfortunately for them, we didn't have any either, so we could only offer moral support and help them get down safely.

The descent was indeed tricky, with all of us slipping and sliding on the loose rocks and snow patches. We took it slow and steady, using our trekking poles for balance and helping each other where needed. As we descended to the pass and saw the huts below, we felt a sense of relief and accomplishment. Although the condition of the girl was concerning, we knew that from that point on, the terrain would be easier to navigate.

We broke the trail for the couple and headed down to the hut. Since I don't have gaiters myself, I was struggling with water and snow getting into my shoes. Still, it was manageable, and I was doing my part to help the couple down safely. AFter reaching the hut and changing our socks, we continued down the relatively clear dirt road back to the barracks. The couple told us they were grateful for our help and company, and would manage the rest of the way on their own.

The sun at that point has already set, and we were walking in the dusk. It was amazing to see all the colors in the sky and the mountains as we made our way back. Soon, the stars started to appear, and we felt a sense of wonder and awe at the beauty of nature. There were no streetlights or artificial lights around, and the sky was so clear that we could see the Milky Way stretching across the sky. You don't get to see that often in the city!

At the end, we reached the barracks and waited for the last bus back to Mittenwald. Guess what? The bus actually goes on the other side of the road, and that absolute dickhead driver didn't even bother to stop for us! We had to walk all the way back to Mittenwald on foot, which took us another hour in the dark and cold of the night.

To sum up, this hike is manageable in any season with the right gear, but I would advise against going alone or walking on the ridge in winter. Although the ridge "trail" is not marked as closed in winter, the conditions are just too dangerous without a full set of alpine gear and experience. Repeating this trip in summer would be much more enjoyable and safer, allowing for a full exploration of the ridge between Soiernspitze (2253 m) and Signalkopf (1895 m).